J.E.E.P. actually means…

Just Expect Every Problem

Here’s a story of some of my recent Jeep maintenance/repairs over the last few months.

It started with me finally getting tired of the steering wheel being 15 degrees off. I knew I needed an alignment, but I also knew I had a few loose components that needed to be replaced before I could get an alignment.

I felt very good when I actually found an extremely loose left lower ball joint. I felt very bad after pressing in the joint without power tools. I pulled a few muscles in my back. The plan was to replace the upper while I had the Jeep apart, but I bailed on that when I hurt my back. (remember this for later) I didn’t play golf for almost a month! A very unprofessional, DIY alignment later and I was on the road. Once on the road it didn’t feel much better.

The Jeep specific ball joint kit off Amazon really helped!

An oil change at Nate’s (did I tell the new engine story?) brought on the discovery of a bad wheel bearing. He wouldn’t let the Jeep leave the shop without it being fixed, it was so bad. And I had just got back from an Eldorado Canyon run; Dayton and back!

Soon there after, I discovered worn track bar bushings. Replacing the bushings, and again doing a home alignment, I was back on the trail. Multiple trips to the Rubicon, no issues. I had found all my issues. Black – worn out, blue – wrong bushing, red – same weak type from JKS, metal – press in bushing will be the go-to from now on.

New JKS adjustable track bar I will need to shorten by 3/4″. I’ll tell that story when I install the new track bar. Winter project.

Sadly, death wobble appeared on the road home on trip number four. It was time for a professional. I went to Ayre’s for an alignment.

At Ayre’s, they found that the NEW track bar bushings were again toasted. Probably beat up during the death wobble. If that weren’t bad enough, the metal openings on the stock track bar for those bushings had been worn open so the solid bushings would not seat properly. I had them tack weld the solid bushings in place and I ordered a new JKS adjustable track bar.

But wait, there’s more. Remember the upper ball joint I declined to replace? It was bad and needed to be replaced. I don’t like paying someone for something I can do myself, but it was literally on the lift at the shop. Professional alignment done, steering wheel (almost) straight. I’ll have to wait on the new adjustable track bar until winter. If I do it now, I’ll need another realignment.

As I planned a maintenance trip to the Rubicon Trail, (Paving the Rubicon! | The ‘Other’ Rubicon) I hooked up my trailer and checked the trailer lights. I happened to notice the TJ’s left brake light was out. What a rabbit hole. It was not a bad bulb.

I thought I found an intermittent short with the exposed wire. I covered it up, put it all back together and still had no brake light! Then I took it all apart, again.

Because my TJ is set up for flat towing. That means the previous owner had tapped into the wiring and complicated everything. I fought trying to get the brake light to work while it was hanging by its wires. I had provided a ground. In the process, I broke a diode from the towing wires. I miss Radio Shack. It was a chore to find a diode. With a hint from a friend, I ran a tap through the three mounting holes in the Jeep and wire brushed the bolts before reinstallation. Bottom line, bad ground, lights work!

A few trips later, I decided to address yet another purely Jeep issue. The slow fill gas issue. It’s well known that the anti-spill feature has three nubs that get hung up and do not allow for a quick fill. It’s a free fix but you have to drop the tank, get inside, take apart the check valve and then put it all back together.

Remember: Just Expect Every Problem?

Dropping the tank is not really difficult. But don’t drop it, while you’re dropping it. I had my tank slip off the jack stand. The fuel line was still attached and when it went taunt, it broke off the plastic pipe of the fuel pump, holding the fuel line. That was a $200 mistake!

Broken $200 fuel pump.

Anti-spill float device. Note double “nub”. There are three of those pairs of nubs that need to be removed. I’m told there are a few different versions of this float but all have the same issue with the centering nubs getting caught up.

“Nubs” ground flat. No more binding!

Replacing the tank required a better system than a floor jack. The dual ratchet strp system along with the floor jack worked very well.

But it wasn’t only the fuel line I had issues with. When I went to disconnect the electrical connector, I slide over the red tab and then pressed down to unlock the connector. It broke. I went straight to the screwdriver and ‘manually’ freed the connector. I then ordered a new one online.

Old and new. The colors of the wires didn’t match but I didn’t care.

I soldered the wires to the existing wires rather than put the old wires into the new connector. One, I didn’t want to mess with the connector and two, this gives the wire loom more length to easier lower the tank next time. I hope I never have to lower this tank again. The shrink tubing is longer than it needs to be but I went longer for better protection.

The Jeep is now all put back together. For now. The tank is full and it filled without having to hold the lever at half speed.

I’m now ready to escape the 100 degree temperatures in Reno next week for the cooler high 80’s of the greater Tahoe area.

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Rubicon Ronin


The Saga Continues…

I would follow through with my promise to post more about the trails, but I don’t have my Jeep back yet.

So, Jeep. “Just Expect Every Problem” or “Just Empty Every Pocket”. I seem to have proven that true, again.

Below is a picture of a piece of cast iron. It’s a very important piece. It seems the violent rotational vibration I experienced on I80 at 65mph was worse than I had thought. Not only did it destroy my transmission, but it broke off this small piece. This piece of cast iron is one of the four mounting points for my transmission to my engine.

If you look closely, you can see a shinny spot in the upper right corner. It looks like the gasket is missing but the actual mounting surface is missing.

We talked about the possibility of welding it back on and that idea was quickly dismissed.

Now, if this were for my mother driving to the store every Sunday morning, I’d say go for it with three. Since I will be driving this rig on the Rubicon, I can’t take the chance running three out of four. That means a new engine.

Nate’s got on it for me a had a new long block in a day or two from Jasper’s. Unfortunately, there was bad news with the new engine. Nate himself did the inspection didn’t like the pitting on the surface where the water pumps mounts. He sent the engine back and called me to say the repairs would be delayed.

The upside is I won’t have to replace the rear main seal that was leaking. Well, I guess I did replace the rear main when I replaced the entire engine.

Looking back, there were signs the transmission was not happy. I had been putting off a flush or fluid change. My advice is to jump on maintenance as soon as possible!

Happy New Year!

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Rubicon Ronin


TJ Update

Let me start with an apology. I’m sorry I’m not posting more about the Rubicon Trail and the side trails in the area. I realize that is the goal of this website blog. The reality is that I’m not getting up to the Rubicon as I once did. I will make an effort to post more trail related stuff moving forward, but not today.

In order to get out on the trails, I need a functional Jeep. A very good friend of mine (no names) has been hugely involved in the Rubicon Trail over the years and he has walked the trail more than he’s driven the trail in recent years as his rig is always under construction. I want to drive it. And I want to drive it now.

Now, I could have taken on the repair of my TJ myself. Not needing to do a lot of snow wheeling, April would be a good deadline. But I wasn’t looking forward to 20-30 hours flat on my back under my Jeep. I’m a slow mechanic. If I had done the repair, I would always be second guessing if I torqued that bolt correctly or if I had caught all of the damage. What if I had parts left over? No, time for a professional!

The unassuming photo above is of Nate’s Precision LLC in Sparks, Nevada. They came highly recommended from many people within the Reno 4×4 community. For the record, I am NOT being compensated by Nate’s for any of this work in exchange for being mentioned here. I’m paying full price and it’s a BIG number.

Below is the mechanic about to drive my TJ in to the operating room.

And here my TJ will remain until it’s fixed.

So, new transmission from Jasper’s. It comes with an external cooler but I’m also adding a larger ribbed pan (forgot the maker, I’ll look for the name and add it later). Rear main seal while it’s accessible, it was starting to leak. New starter as the lower mount tab had broken. Hopefully, they don’t find further damage. Probably a new crank position sensor, as it had thrown that code. Who knows what else.

The good news, they think it will be done by the end of the week!

Stay tuned,

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Rubicon Ronin